Lagerstroemia subcostata

Deciduous multi-stemmed vase-shaped small tree reaching around 5m in height.

Delicate crinkled white flowers with a slight fragrance bloom from late summer to autumn and are occasionally followed by small brown fruit. Mature trees develop spectacular peeling bark in shades of gray brown and maroon.
Leaves are dark green and turn yellow orange or red before they fall in autumn.

Best in free-draining slightly acid soil in full sun. Will tolerate clay and nutritionally poor sandy soils and are drought tolerant. With a tendency towards brittleness, some shelter will minimise the chance of damage to branches in strong wind.

Always choose healthy, well-grown plants. Trees may be planted at any time throughout the year provided they are watered during dry periods. Planting success is often improved on clay soils by adding extra topsoil and forming raised beds. Incorporate coarse sand, bark, peat, compost or other organic material to improve soil structure. Planting after autumn rains when the soil is moist and warm allows trees and shrubs to become established before winter. This enables them to withstand dry periods during the following summer. Before planting ensure that the root-ball is saturated and remove planter bag, pot or wrapping with the minimum of root disturbance. Trim any broken roots or branches and plant at the same level as in the container. Tall plants and those in windy positions require staking to stabilize the root ball until established. Position the stakes in the hole before planting and place the plant between them.

Long term slow release fertilisers may be added at this stage. As soil is placed in the prepared hole, tread firmly to bring soil in close contact with the root-ball. Use wide ties that hold securely without chafing. Tie firmly but allow room for the trunk to increase in girth without constriction. This allows the plant to move a little in the wind, encouraging the development of a strong root system without the risk of chafing or root damage. Unless the soil is very wet, water thoroughly, making sure that moisture penetrates to the depth of the root-ball.

Apply mulch annually to help suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Feed annually in spring with a balanced fertilizer such as blood and bone at a handful per square metre in spring as new growth begins.

Pruning should be done in late winter or early in the spring before growth begins because then it's easier to see which branches to prune. New growth can be pinched during the growing season when the tree is very small to increase branching and flowering, but this is not needed to develop good form. The tree flowers very nicely without pruning if desired. Lower branches are often thinned to show off the trunk form and colour. You can remove the spent flower heads to encourage a second flush of flowers and to prevent the formation of the brown fruits. Pruning methods vary from topping to cutting crape myrtle nearly to the ground each spring to the removal of deadwood and old flower stalks only. Lower branches are often thinned to show off the trunk form and colour.

Can be hard pruned if renovation is required. You can remove the spent flower heads to encourage a second flush of flowers and to prevent the formation of the brown fruits.

Since cultivars are now available in a wide range of growth heights, severe pruning should not be necessary to control size. Severe pruning or topping can stimulate basal sprouting which can become a constant nuisance requiring regular removal. Some trees sprout from the base of the trunk and roots even without severe heading.

Overly fertile soils tend to produce lush foliage growth at the expense of flowering with somewhat increased susceptibility to winter injury. Water roots deeply particularly in dry spells. Plant in protected locations and apply a winter mulch. With a tendency towards brittleness, some shelter will minimise the chance of damage to branches in strong wind. May require staking.

Generally pest and disease free.

Perennial Garden